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Long Range Forecast  

 

Source: http://swellwatch.wetsand.com

 

Report Date: Fri. February 12, 2009  

Swell Forecast:

Today (Friday) NW swell continues to back off, and it looks like primarily meager background swell from that direction through the weekend.  The main thing we’re looking at right now is a long period groundswell that is headed up from the SW and should be starting to fill in.  Sea heights reached 30+ feet with a fairly direct angle towards the Central American coast late last week.  Periods should be starting to show up around 18 seconds from 221 degrees, this afternoon and evening.  As the swell builds the angle will shift towards 215 degrees.  The Swell looks like it should peak Saturday and Sunday before backing off into the middle of next week.

Beyond that there should be a NW starting to fill in with long 20-second periods on the 15th, growing to full size on the 17th.  This looks like a healthy sized NW from 295 that should continue to offer sizable surf through the end of next week.  There is also a smaller pulse of SW from around 213 degrees that should continue to hold the surf at exposed S facing breaks for the 18th and 19th.


Tropical Conditions:

No tropical cyclones at this time

Weekly Outlook:

Today (Friday the 12th) as NW backs down from to the waist high+ range at stand out breaks.  The new SW groundswell should start to fill in with periods around 18 seconds.  The initial part of the swell will hit with surf in the chest to head high+ range and possibly overhead from 221 degrees. 

Saturday the 13th the SW groundswell continues to build to overhead ranges and possibly a couple feet overhead at exposed breaks.   Periods should hold at around 18-seconds.

Sunday the 14th the SW groundswell continues to pulse with wave heights overhead to a couple feet overhead.  Periods are expected to finally start backing down to around 16 seconds, but this shouldn’t affect the peak of the swell too much. 

Monday the 15th it looks like a small decrease in size will start to bring the surf down to the head high to head high+ range with periods around 15 seconds through the day.  It also looks like 20-second forerunners should start to hit from the NW due for the early part of the week.  Wave heights aren’t expected to exceed knee to waist high though at exposed breaks.

Tuesday the 16th as SW drops down to the waist high range through the day, NW starts to kick in to gear.  The wave heights are expected to build into the chest high and head high range by the end of the day at exposed breaks.  The long periods (18 seconds) should help this one wrap into some of the more sheltered locations. 

Wednesday the 17th as SW finally starts to poop out in the waist high range, the NW peaks well overhead at stand out breaks.  Periods should be around 17 seconds form 295.  Some of the islands off the coast and more exposed locations could be seeing fairly large surf.

Thursday the 18th, the NW should hold size in the chest to head high+ range at generally exposed locations that can pick up the 295 degree angle.  Periods should drop down to 16 seconds as well.  There looks like there could be a pulse of chest to head high+ SW filling in as well from 213 degrees.  This system will not be as large as the previous swell at all, but could be a nice little after shock.

Beyond that it looks like there could see some more SW headed up for a couple weeks out, but its too early to call for sure.  Stay tuned for updates.
That's it for today, be safe, and get in the water! 
~ austin

 

 

Copyrighted Material courtesy of Swellwatch by Wetsand.com

Source: http://swellwatch.wetsand.com

 

 

 

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